2018-08-17, 06:52 PM
A real e3d will have a different thermistor so you'll need to rebuild the firmware after selecting the correct one. Or you could cheat and transfer the one from the Anubis to the new hot end.
If the anubis seems to be working find why not try cleaning it? I use pipe cleaners on the real Ubis on my Printrbot, make sure they're not the melty polyester kind. Heat the hot end to operating temp, remove the nozzle and pull out the plastic, then scrub out it's innards. If you're really hard core find some yarn or twine that fits in the barrel, apply a mild abrasive (some like metal polish), thread the yarn through the barrel, and run it up and down until you get a nice polish or tired out arms. Get the filament started again and run some through without the nozzle to remove any debris. Clean and put the nozzle back on and try extruding some filament to make sure everything's back to working order.
I use a welding tip cleaner to clean out the nozzle, they're at any welding shop, most hardware stores, and Amazon. You want to clean it, not make it bigger, so be careful what size(es) you use. It's like a little round file with a smooth starter area, start small and work up in sizes, again without drilling it bigger. Some people seem to like small drill bits, but I think the tip cleaners work as well and are harder to screw up the nozzle's orifice. Another technique is to heat the nozzle up with a torch (I use our propane stove burner), then dunk it in isopropol alcohol, sometimes called IPA (not the tasty kind that comes draft, cans, or bottles). I've not had great luck with an IPA burnout, but some swear by it. It'll usually shine up the nozzle, at least, before you tip cleaner it.
Auto bed leveling is a poor second to actually leveling (really tramming, but let's avoid that discussion, no sprit level involved as you're getting the head to bed clearance the same everywhere) your print bed. It's mostly a way for manufacturers to pump out machines while avoiding extra setup, and to avoid teaching users how to properly perform the task. You can use paper shims to raise the low corners, and a feeler gauge or even strip of paper to measure the clearance until it's the same everywhere across the bed. Manual (and auto) leveling won't fix a bed that's not flat, but a piece of double strength window glass or flat aluminum plate will. Lots of info online, google is your friend.
Kirk
If the anubis seems to be working find why not try cleaning it? I use pipe cleaners on the real Ubis on my Printrbot, make sure they're not the melty polyester kind. Heat the hot end to operating temp, remove the nozzle and pull out the plastic, then scrub out it's innards. If you're really hard core find some yarn or twine that fits in the barrel, apply a mild abrasive (some like metal polish), thread the yarn through the barrel, and run it up and down until you get a nice polish or tired out arms. Get the filament started again and run some through without the nozzle to remove any debris. Clean and put the nozzle back on and try extruding some filament to make sure everything's back to working order.
I use a welding tip cleaner to clean out the nozzle, they're at any welding shop, most hardware stores, and Amazon. You want to clean it, not make it bigger, so be careful what size(es) you use. It's like a little round file with a smooth starter area, start small and work up in sizes, again without drilling it bigger. Some people seem to like small drill bits, but I think the tip cleaners work as well and are harder to screw up the nozzle's orifice. Another technique is to heat the nozzle up with a torch (I use our propane stove burner), then dunk it in isopropol alcohol, sometimes called IPA (not the tasty kind that comes draft, cans, or bottles). I've not had great luck with an IPA burnout, but some swear by it. It'll usually shine up the nozzle, at least, before you tip cleaner it.
Auto bed leveling is a poor second to actually leveling (really tramming, but let's avoid that discussion, no sprit level involved as you're getting the head to bed clearance the same everywhere) your print bed. It's mostly a way for manufacturers to pump out machines while avoiding extra setup, and to avoid teaching users how to properly perform the task. You can use paper shims to raise the low corners, and a feeler gauge or even strip of paper to measure the clearance until it's the same everywhere across the bed. Manual (and auto) leveling won't fix a bed that's not flat, but a piece of double strength window glass or flat aluminum plate will. Lots of info online, google is your friend.
Kirk
------
KS Printrbot Plus, modified
Thingybot Delta
QU-BD One Up (parts, bad motor)
QU-BD RPM (unassembled parts, no spindle)
Maslow CNC V4.1 (4'x8' belt drive)
Zenbot Mini (6"x8", grbl_ESP32)
SainSmart 3018Pro, 4030V2, 4040 Pro
Ender 3 Pro, K1C
BobsCNC Revolution (FluidNC)
Eggbot
KS Printrbot Plus, modified
Thingybot Delta
QU-BD One Up (parts, bad motor)
QU-BD RPM (unassembled parts, no spindle)
Maslow CNC V4.1 (4'x8' belt drive)
Zenbot Mini (6"x8", grbl_ESP32)
SainSmart 3018Pro, 4030V2, 4040 Pro
Ender 3 Pro, K1C
BobsCNC Revolution (FluidNC)
Eggbot