Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
Hi All,
As I mentioned in the General Discussion forum, I just ordered a Creality3D CR-10.
So, I decided to start a thread about it, in case anyone already has one, or knows something about it. Feel free to chime in. I'll post my updates here once I receive the printer. I'm looking forward to buying a lot more filament
Stan
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
2017-12-23, 07:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 2017-12-24, 12:15 AM by MisterAcoustic.
Edit Reason: Removed unneeded quote of previous post
)
It's here!
Well, apparently I have some work to do on the forums regarding images and uploads ,
I tried to post inline images, which looked like it was going to work - but that made the message too long. Then I tried to attach the files, and only files less than 500k are allowed .
So, I guess I'll post some images later .
In the meantime, it looks really easy to put together. I'm starting on it now.
I hope to at least do some test prints tonight.
Stan
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
Setup has gone well. I'm taking my time. Doing it for a second time would take very little time.
I'm thinking about this machine as compared to my TwoUp(s), and how times are changing in the 3D printing world. Basically, the TwoUp was a very cheap printer at the time, costing $289 if I remember correctly (since I upgraded a OneUp, I'm not sure I recall the pricing correctly)
I did pay a little more for this machine, at $360. But... the TwoUp might as well be made of papier-mache in comparison.
The TwoUp has a large number of small, nasty-dirty, ill-fitting parts which, once they are assembled do not give an impression of great strength. Indeed, if you don't glue it up, it can fall apart just sitting there or while printing - and if you do glue it up, it's dramatically more difficult to repair should it break.
Why would a TwoUp break? It has no limit switches, so you can tell it to tear itself apart, and it will dutifully obey. In addition, the narrow base gives it an odd balance, and one of mine fell off a table as a result.
Switch to the Creality CR-10... It's a very strong aluminum frame with a GIANT build volume. It has both limit switches and a heated bed. Honestly, it's just night and day.
Anyway, let me get back to working on my first print. You'll be the first to know when I figure out how to post an image here .
Stan
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
Well, it got late, and the printer does need some dialing in.
I will sleep on it, and post the pics tomorrow. Even though it didn't print magically perfectly on the first try, I'm fairly sure it's just normal adjustments that need to be made.
I will say that so far, the glass bed is _perfect_ . No adhesion problems, and fantastically easy to remove my little test cubes.
In addition, the X and Y dimensional accuracy is spot on.
More tomorrow.
Stan
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
2017-12-24, 02:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 2017-12-24, 02:32 PM by MisterAcoustic.
Edit Reason: Images still fouled up, trying something else...
)
Okay, here are my first results from last night.
These are 10mm test cubes. The leftmost 2 are 0.6mm layer height, and 60% infill (if I remember correctly). The one on the right is 0.4mm layer height, and 100% infill (solid).
No other changes. I'm still working out exactly what might be going on, but I think I have both temperature and cooling issues.
Advice and recommendations appreciated.
Thanks!
Stan
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
Hello,
My ISP saw fit to disconnect my home internet, so while they flail about trying to fix that, I'm stuck posting from my phone.
I solved a few issues, and have a very good 10 mm cube to show for it. Since I'm unable to download other models just now, my 30 mm cube is looking quite awesome so far
More later
Stan
Posts: 59
Threads: 7
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
0
Print multiples, like 2 or 4. Those 10mm cubes don't allow enough cooling time between layers even with a fan.
That's pretty much standard advice for small parts, either add something else to the build plate, or print more than one of them. Some slicers have "cooling towers" (think that's Kisslicer) that'll do the same thing, but then you have something to throw out, might as well throw in something useful, or at least interesting. Off the top of my head I don't remember what a good minimum layer time is, but it should be pretty easy to google. It'll vary by type of plastic
------
KS Printrbot Plus, modified
Thingybot Delta
QU-BD One Up (parts, received with bad motor)
QU-BD RPM (incomplete box-o-parts, spindle never received)
Maslow CNC (4'x8' chain drive)
Zenbot Mini (6"x8" router, grbl_ESP32)
SainSmart Genmitsu 3018Pro
Ender 3 Pro
BobsCNC Revolution (FluidNC)
Posts: 155
Threads: 40
Joined: Nov 2017
Reputation:
4
Hi Mooselake,
Thanks - I wondered if that was a possibility, that it was just too small.
The 30 mm cube did complete, and is pretty awesome (though I don't have a pic). It was lucky though that I was kind of watching it, because the supplied filament was wrapped so poorly on the spool that the extruder motor couldn't pull it off - so I did get one layer with not enough plastic. It really didn't affect anything.
I got my network connection back, and my son wanted to print something, so we tried a Benchy boat. It also worked very well, although there are some improvements to be made. My phone has a nice camera that almost never works well, so here's what I have:
I'm pretty pleased with it. I don't really know the model very well, so I don't know everything to look for. I'll try to get some better pictures.
Stan
|